The Thanksgiving Feast

Matt was there. He is the one taking the picture.

For our first holiday in Okinawa Matt got a four day weekend, and we celebrated Thanksgiving day with our neighbors. Our nine story apartment building is still being renovated, so there are only six families total living on the third or first floor. Even though an entire building was invited, we were still able to fit around two tables pushed together. I love our little community, and we are all a bit sad that we have to share this great big building with others eventually.

We divided up the traditional dishes, and we ended up with a plethora of food! I made a nine pound ham, deviled eggs, and my mom's recipe for meatballs. Those were a hit with the kids table! They asked for seconds! There was also turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, macaroni and cheese, cobbler, cookies, and oreo pie. Everything was homemade and delicious. My personal favorite, however, was the sweet potato casserole. It tasted like sweet, traditional casserole with marshmallows, but the color was off. Okinawa is known for its purple sweet potatoes, and those are the only ones available on the island. The result was a bright purple dish. Yum!

It was nice to have Thanksgiving plans while we are so far from family. Thank you to all my new friends and neighbors for welcoming us to our new home!

The Restaurant in the Sky

This Saturday Matt and I got out of bed early (well, earlier than most Saturdays) and met our friends for an adventure! We decided to eat at a restaurant called Pizza in the Sky followed by a tour of castle ruins. I had heard about both these places because the travel office on base offers tours of both, but we decided to pile into a car with friends and drive ourselves. Road trip!

We drove north on the expressway into the mountains, and following directions we found online we turned off the main road onto a side road that was paved but very skinny and windy. We went up and up a mountain, following the signs that pointed towards Pizza in the Sky. We had to wait for about 40 minutes, but we had a breathtaking view to entertain us during our wait! We could see the ocean from high up on our mountain.

We could see picnic tables outside, but the first table we were offered was inside. We agreed as we were all starving by that point. We left our shoes at the door and sat on the mats for my first meal sitting Japanese-style. The poor guys! We had four very tall Marines in our party, and their legs were up by their ears the whole time. Their legs could not fit under the table!

The menu was printed on a paper fan

The pizza was amazing! It had sausage, corn, peppers, onions, and lots and lots of cheese. Having never been there before, we weren't sure what to get. The only choices were salad, small pizza or medium pizza. We decided on two salads and four medium pizzas for the table of six. The pizzas looked like larges to me when they arrived! We were worried we would not be able to finish everything, but we managed to eat every last slice.

We followed our large meal with a trip to see the ruins of Nakijin Castle. We were immediately impressed with the long walls of stone made with no mortar. The stones were so expertly placed that the castle walls remain intact with nothing holding them together.

We then climbed many, many stairs to view the surrounding area from above. This castle was very well defended. It is surrounded by steep cliffs that stretch all the way to the ocean. It made for some stunning views. I think today was my favorite day since arriving. The weather was perfect, a breeze was blowing, and I was amazed by the views of mountain and ocean. I cannot wait to explore our little island even more.

The Major Happenings This Week

First Major Happening: The Marine Corps Ball

Matt and I missed the ball for his unit, but our sponsor bought tickets so we could attend the ball for the staff of third division (I don't get the organization of the divisions...all I know is I wore a pretty dress). I think this was the best ball I have been to yet! We sat at a table with our sponsors, so we had people to talk with throughout dinner. Speaking of which...dinner was really delicious! Salad and shrimp cocktails and roast beef and cake. The cake was the biggest I have ever seen at a birthday ball. We had dancing as well, and I insisted that other wives join me for the electric slide and cupid shuffle. I even met a general who shook my hand and slapped me on the back (kind of hard too). I think that means I met his approval...

Second Major Happening: Matt's New Car

Matt purchased a 1996 Mitsubishi Pajero Mini from another Marine leaving the island. It has four wheel drive, jump seats in the back, and a surf rack on the roof. It is perfect for Matt and his large amounts of gear. Even though the car is 17 years old, since the JCI requires that maintenance and repairs are complete every two years cars stay in much better condition. I also drove off base for the first time when we went to pick up the car. I cut off a bus accidentally (which is illegal here), but no casualties so I am ready for my next driving adventure!

Third Major Happening: Shisa Lion-Dogs

Shisa lion-dogs can be found all over the island. They are outside every home and every business. Even on base! There is even a pair on the roof of our tower, but we wanted some of our very own. One is male with his mouth open to scare away bad spirits, and the other is female with her mouth closed to keep good luck within the home. Now we have our own shisa as well as the fierce Tilly to keep away bad spirits!

Really, really big shisa at a restaurant. 

The Beach Nearby

 Today we were able to put Matt's new, rugged vehicle to good use! We drove just two minutes down the road, parked in a small dirt lot, and walked down to the beach for the first time since we have lived in Okinawa.

It was so different from the beaches back in North Carolina! The sand is very course as it is crushed coral and shell. There are huge volcanic rocks that line the coast. The line of sand is very small before it turns back into jungle. Since our new beach is a bay, lots of trash gets washed ashore. The positive aspect to this is that Matt and I were able to find so many pieces of smashed pottery, sea glass in multiple colors, and shells we had never seen before.

My handful of green sea glass worn smooth by the waves.

We wandered the beach collecting treasures, then sat on the rocks to eat our snack of green tea kit kats and CC Lemon from the vending machine by our car.

We will be returning often to pick up any interesting pieces we find as well as to admire the turquoise water. Any ideas for crafts with sea glass? I already have two pockets full!

The Neo Park Zoo

Chris and Meghan: Our Saintly Sponsors

We had only been in Okinawa a week. We had already purchased a car, been assigned a home, and had our furniture delivered. Obviously on our second Saturday on the island we should go on a road trip! Our sponsors took us to the north side of the island to visit the Neo Park Zoo. This was the first time they did not have to drive us somewhere (we had a car at this point), but chose to do so anyway.

Chris had heard of a restaurant surrounded by waterfalls, so we set out to eat lunch first. We were in a rather large city, but then we saw a sign for the restaurant that said to turn off the main road. We kept following these signs along the dirt road with arrows pointing us deeper and deeper into the jungle. We finally found the restaurant... with a parking lot of tour buses! We were obviously not that far into the wilderness. We saw staircases winding around many beautiful manmade waterfalls. We climbed multiple staircases dripping with bright flowers to the top of the waterfall only to discover that the restaurant itself was at the base of the hill, so we climbed right back down. The food was great, and I went outside my comfort zone to try papaya kimchi (that was spicy) and some sort of seaweed side (that was salty) along with my ginger pork (that was amazing). 

After lunch we headed to the zoo. This zoo was different because you could feed most of the animals! You bought food at the beginning, and then you wander through different zones full of animals that eat right out of your hand!

I was scared of this guy's beak, and he did get my fingers! Ouch!

The wallabies were so cute!

Two handsome fellows. 

It was a small zoo, but the animals had plenty of room to roam around. The only part I did not like was the dog area. They had what appeared to me to be normal house dogs just tied to posts. That confused me, but overall the animals were well fed and super friendly. We had an amazing time at the zoo-and then ended the day with shaved ice. It is November here, but the days are still hot! At least it isn't too cold for more island exploring!

The Cypha

I have a new car!!! She is a 2003 Toyota Will Cypha. She is the same kind as the highlighter yellow car Tim has, but in a cool, ice blue. Matt and I looked all over the lemon lot and bookoo (the Okinawan Craigslist), but we decided to go with a used car dealership. The main reason being the JCI- Japanese Cumpulsary Automobile Insurance. Every two years you must pass an inspection that tests every aspect of your car: engine, tires, lights, etc. The test itself is expensive, but even more expensive is the possibility of numerous little fixes that will be required before you can drive again . Usually one can expect to pay anywhere from one to two thousand dollars in order to pass the inspection. The car dealership included a brand new JCI, so we will only have to pay the insurance once while we are on the island. They also threw in new tires. We were sold! The positive side to the JCI is that cars remain in excellent condition here far longer than in the states. We chose a 2003 for me, but we are going to test drive a car from the late '90's for Matt this week.

So far I have only driven on Camp Courtney, my little home base. Eventually I will branch out to the madness that is off base, but until then me and my Cypha are going to know how to get to the grocery store and the library really, really well!

The Newcomers Orientation

Matt and I were required to attend a newcomers orientation on Wednesday with all the married couples who arrived on our military flight. We were there from seven thirty in the morning until four thirty in the afternoon. It was a long day with many different speakers. My favorite, however, was the speaker for the culture brief. She taught us a few basic words (hello, thank you), and told us things that we should never, never do. Like tip the waiter or pass food from chopsticks to chopsticks. She also emphasized that the people in Okinawa value the community over the individual and praise virtues such as humility and graciousness. I have personally witnessed the thoughtfulness of the local people. When Matt left his dirty clothing on the unmade bad, our housekeeper made the bed and folded his work out clothes.

Example A of being too considerate. 

I wish we had attended the brief before Matt and I made our first foray off base just the two of us. The day before we wanted to find a restaurant, and after several turns away from the base gate we found a side street with several options. We chose a Japanese taco stand. I did not even know how to say simple phrases such as "thank you" in Japanese, so I felt very lost. Fortunately there was a book of pictures on every table so I could simply point to what I wanted. The lost in translation moment began when I noticed shoes lining the wall on the other side of the restaurant. We were still wearing our shoes! We were also the only ones in the restaurant, so I could not look to others for guidance. I was really worried about offending the kind restaurant owner, so Matt attempted to ask if we should take off our shoes. This led to Matt pantomiming un-tying his shoes as the owner looked completely baffled. We gave up. After the brief we learned that many places required you take off your shoes if you sit on the mats, but you keep your shoes on if you sit at the "Western-style" tables and chairs. We didn't offend anyone! We just confused them a little bit.

Japanese taco stand

Me with my taco rice. I am so happy they gave me a SPOON! 

An "American" restaurant with an "American" on the sign. Made me giggle. 

The newcomers orientation ended with the written drivers test to obtain our driver's license. We had studied the road signs and rules of the road throughout the day (I had studied the night before too), and we both passed! With our licenses in hand we went to a used car lot off base and bought a car for me! I love it! We pick it up tomorrow! Matt will drive it to work until I feel more comfortable driving on the other side of the road and we find the perfect car for him.

I am not going to show a picture until we pick it up, but just a hint- it is one of the cars featured on my post "The Strangest Cars," but in a different color. Stay tuned!

Who else loves the smiley faces?

The Housing Appointment

My biggest concern moving to Okinawa was a home. I simply could not picture what a house would look like in such a foreign place. It is very difficult to move somewhere new without knowing exactly where you are going to be living!

I also did not know what our options would be due to all the rules governing housing. There are many military bases on Okinawa, and Matt works on Camp Schwab which is the northernmost base on the island. There is no family housing on Camp Schwab or even the next base to the south. However, there is a rule stating that Matt cannot be offered housing on base that results in a commute time over 60 minutes. Right off the bat we were restricted to three bases with housing on the northern side of the island. If housing is at less than 98% capacity we are required to live on base so that the military is not paying to maintain empty housing. Our sponsors arrived when housing was at 100% capacity so that they were required to live off-base. There is a very slim margin when you get any say in the matter. Also, housing is categorized by rank so that officers only live with other officers and not junior or senior enlisted, so capacity on base might differ depending on your rank. 

I was anxious for the housing appointment that lets you know if you can live on or off base. It was scheduled for Tuesday morning. Monday morning Matt and I both woke up at four in the morning (thanks jet lag), and lounged around for a while. Our sponsor was going to pick Matt up and show him around Camp Schwab, so Matt got ready as I relaxed in my pajamas. Our sponsor called and said the housing appointment had been moved to Monday morning, and I only had fifteen minutes before he arrived to pick us up. I hurried to brush my teeth and wash my face. I could not believe that I had been awake for four hours and not taken the time to get ready. 

We arrived on Camp Courtney for the housing appointment. We were joined in the conference room by  two Combat Engineer Officers who had graduated in Matt's class and their wives. We first had to discuss all of the rules that I have already explained, and finally we got down to the capacity numbers. Camp Courtney was only at 58% for officers, so we finally knew we were living on base! Usually it takes a few days for them to put everyone in order of rank and determine what housing is available, but since there was so much available and we were all the same rank we got to see the housing right after the meeting! 

The military is required to give you two options. And they did. Usually they show you homes on two different bases or two different styles of houses (apartment or townhouse). We were given the choice between Room 302 or 304 on the same floor in the same building. Thanks, Marine Corps. 

But I love what we got!!!

We were assigned to the towers which is a nine story building of apartments. Our apartment on the third floor is newly renovated. We could not live on a higher floor because they are not finished with those yet. Everything is brand spanking new! I also love the location. We are on Camp Courtney which has its own library, commissary, gym, and movie theater. The towers are right next to the base gate, so we are within walking distance of local restaurants. I cannot wait to move in Thursday!

The combination living and dining room with a balcony. 

Newly renovated kitchen! 

One of two bathrooms!

The master bedroom (one of three) with a balcony! 

The Strangest Cars

The first difference between America and Okinawa that I noticed as soon as I left the airport was the size and shape of the cars in the parking lot. They are so small! And there are so many shapes and colors of cars that I have never seen before! Matt and I are so excited to purchase two new cars. We really cannot test drive until we have taken our driver's test, but we can sure look around! We have already visited the Okinawa Yard Sales site (similar to Craigslist), and the auto resale lot (jokingly called the lemon lot) within walking distance of our hotel. We also see cars we love while simply walking through parking lots. I thought I would share some pictures of the crazy, colorful cars of Okinawa.

This is our friend Tim's highlighter yellow car.

Some of the pastel cars at the grocery store. 

We thought this car looked like a robot!

This is Matt's favorite vehicle so far. It is a Pajero Mini and looks like a tiny jeep. 

This 2001 Toyota Will is for sale at the lemon lot. I like the style!

The First 24 Hours

Matt studying the map-his favorite form of research. 

The majority of our first 24 hours in Okinawa was spent sleeping. We had barely slept for two days, so we were out for eleven hours straight as soon as we reached our hotel. When we woke up that morning I was better able to appreciate everything our sponsors had done for us. They had already stocked our fridge with frozen pizza (which we had eaten before bed), milk, bottled water, and grapes. They had an assortment of cereals on the counter along with traditional Okinawan pineapple cookies, their cell phone numbers, and a map of the base and the island. The hotel room they had booked for us was on Kadena Air Force Base. We are staying here until we find housing. While the room is one of the older ones of the Air Force Inn, I am so comfortable here. There is a living room, bedroom, bathroom, and even a separate kitchen with two of everything: two pots, two plates, two glasses, two bowls, two forks and two spoons. 

This is the light switch and fan for the bathroom. I am still confused by it. 

Around noon our sponsors picked us up and took us off base for our first real Japanese meal. We went to Stripes Noodle for ramen. Our sponsors had to order and pay for us because a) we could not read the menu and b) we did not have any yen. We have a lot to learn! We all ordered steak ramen with gyoza (potstickers) and it was amazing! My only problem was the chopsticks. It took me ten minutes to eat one potsticker. At this current rate I would probably starve, but I am sure I will improve out of necessity. 

After lunch our sponsors took us to the Exchange to sign our new contracts for cell phones. We both have the new iPhone 5s. We signed the contract that was in Japanese, so I must have a lot of faith in the salesperson. I am looking for apps that will facilitate communication with friends and family. Any suggestions? 

The Last 24 Hours

In the last 24 hours I have left my country for a new one. It was a long journey. Very, very long. We slept an hour or two at the hotel before our alarm went off. Check-in for our military flight was from 2:30 a.m. to 5:30 a.m. We were told that the seats were first-come first-served, so we wanted to be there as early as possible. After re-packing, checking out, and being taken to the airport by a shuttle driver who obviously just woke up we arrived at the airport at 2:45 a.m. We saw a ridiculously long line. Over a hundred people with multiple bags each wound around the airport. We were the last people in line. No family ever came to stand behind us. I have no idea what time everyone else arrived, but they might not have slept at all that night. We waited for over an hour. When one of the ticketing agents noticed we had a cat, he pulled us out of line to the front to address the separate paperwork. Our friends at the back of the line muttered good-naturedly, "That is messed up." Matt laughed and told him he should bring a cat next time. We had all of the proper paperwork (despite the fact that I kept handing her the wrong document due to my lack of sleep), so they took our bags and gave us our seat numbers. Turns out they reserve spots for families so that family members are not separated. We were given two seats together in row 6, the very front of the plane! We also learned that the plane did not leave until 8:30. By that point we still had four hours to burn before boarding. We had breakfast and wandered around. Why was check-in so early?!?

We finally began our eleven hour flight to mainland Japan. I wanted to sleep so badly, but I managed to stay awake long enough for the breakfast they served. French toast, yum! And then I could sleep. I woke up and the flight was only half over. So I read for another five and a half hours. We stopped at Yokota Air Force Base. We had to wait for an hour or so as they refueled the plane, and all of the pet owners were asked to come outside. It was an opportunity to walk our pets. We were too afraid to let Tilly out. She would probably go find another family after that plane ride. Other cat owners did not share the same fear. One guy simply let his cat go, and the cat just lounged in the grass. One girl had harnesses and leashes for her two cats, but they did not want to walk anywhere. They just kept lunging for the hiding places. Then it was time to go back inside and wait to get back on the plane.

The next flight to Iwakuni Air Force Base was only an hour. We had to leave the plane again and wait in a one room terminal. We tried to give Tilly some water, but she refused to drink any. This is when spirits fell. We did not know why we had to wait an hour when we had just refueled. The only food available was hot dogs. By this point Tilly had to begun to cry loudly, and I could not blame her. Everyone wanted to end this seemingly never-ending journey. The last leg was only an hour and a half,  and we finally arrived in a dark and rainy Okinawa.

There was a good amount of the journey that I did not like, but one thing really stood out to me as the journey progressed. The people on the flight treated each other like family. Everyone was kind and helpful to each other. When I noticed that the girl with cats on leashes was alone with two cats I offered my help. She had me hold one of her cats as she walked the other. At our next stop she left one cat with me as she checked on the other. She trusted me right away. I don't know if that trust would happen as quickly in another setting. I know all the kids were bored, so I invited the kids around me at our first stop to "talk" to Tilly to see if she would meow back. One little boy asked if he could sing her the "ABC" song. Of course I said yes! He happily sang to my cat in her carrier. I don't think Tilly appreciated how adorable that was, but I was tickled. In Okinawa everyone let the families with children go through customs first. They insisted on it, and smiled and chatted with the families in line. We had asked our friends to pick us up at the airport since our sponsors had their Marine Corps Ball that night. We arrived and our sponsors were there waiting for us! They had skipped the ball to come pick us up! Our friends had arrived as well to take Tilly to their home. We had a whole group of people there to help us. I felt very grateful. Even though we were in a foreign country for the first time, we were not alone.